Teaser: A Journey Through Lemon Country

Today, we’re following an ancient path through the lemon groves of Italy’s Amalfi Coast. Meeting the families who keep this tradition alive, and ending with a taste of the sweet life. Welcome to the Path of the Lemons.

Here, lemons aren’t just a crop, they’re a way of life, handed down from generation to generation.

 

Welcome to Maiori: Where the Path Begins

Our journey begins in Maiori, a town that feels more real than touristy.

Maiori is one of the oldest towns on the Amalfi Coast and boasts the longest unbroken stretch of beach along this rugged coastline, making it a favorite summer spot for Italian families.

From the beach, if you look up toward the hills, you’ll spot a lattice of terraces climbing steeply above the town, these are the lemon groves we’re about to explore. Today we’re going to walk the Path of the Lemons. The Lemon Trail starts here in Maiori and you access it near this church, just here. And we’re going to climb the mountains and walk along the trail, and then we’ll descend and end our journey in Minori.

 

Climbing to the Church: Santuario Santa Maria a Mare

The start of the Path of the Lemons isn’t hard to find, it’s tucked just behind the main street, climbing gently towards the hills.

Head along Corso Regina to find the start of the trail and then head up the steps to find the church.

Follow the signs upwards to reach the start of the path.

We climb through quiet alleyways and up stone steps, and the first stretch leads us to a beautiful church.

 

The View Over Lemon Groves

Santuario Santa Maria a Mare, has kept a watchful eye over the valley for centuries. I loved its striking dome covered in green and yellow tiles.

 

Starting the Path of the Lemons

The journey continues just behind the church. A narrow lane winds upwards and this is where the Path of the Lemons truly begins. From here, you leave the town behind and step into a landscape shaped by centuries of lemon farming, where every bend reveals a new glimpse of the sea and the stories rooted in these hills.

 

What Makes These Lemons Unique?

The lemons grown along the Amalfi Coast are unlike any others. They’re the sfusato amalfitano, and they’re much sweeter than other lemons. It’s the unique combination of the Mediterranean Sea, salty sea air and tradition that gives these lemons their unique taste, making them perfect for the region’s famous limoncello.

 

Lemonade with a Local Family

Halfway along the trail, we are warmly welcomed into a family’s garden. A living piece of history.

You’re thirsty? Ok I’ll let you in. Marriana! Ospitalità señori. The family has farmed these hills for three generations. Every tree, every path, every view, part of their story.

We try some of their fresh lemonade and marmalade, made from fruit grown right here on these terraces.

 

Generations of Lemon Growers

Mariana and her mother shared many stories with us and explained the traditions and challenges that come with living on the hills. Their land is only accessible by foot, or donkey.

 

Donkeys on the Trail

So, anything that enters or leaves is carried by human hand or one of their four legged friends.

The lemon is 57 kilos. 57 kilos! Down to the garden-Up to the donkey and transport. For it is not possible for tractor – only tuto mano or donkey. The donkeys are honored along the way, with ceramic tiles depicting them.

Mariana’s warm hospitality and pride in the land is unforgettable, and visiting this family was a truly heart-warming experience.

There are other places to stop along the trail and you’ll find small cafés and quiet viewpoints.

 

Agricola Ruocco’s Lemon Farm and Cafe

Agricola Ruocco’s was a family run business, offering a variety of freshly made lemon-based treats including sorbet, granita, spritz, cake, lemonade and even coffee.

 

How long does it take to walk the Path of the Lemons?

The Path of the Lemons stretches for about 3.5 kilometers or 2 miles, and typically takes around an hour and a half to 2 hours to walk, depending on your pace and how often you stop to take in the stunning views along the way. We took a really leisurely stroll, soaking it all in so took a little longer.

 

Arriving in Minori

The trail descends gently into Minori, another coastal town where everyday life still revolves around the rhythm of the seasons, the sea, and of course, lemons.

You might want to start your walk from Minori and both towns are worth visiting.

This is where you start the trail of the lemons on the Minori side.

Minori is smaller than Maiori, but no less rich in character. If you start in Maiori, you’ll emerge right into the heart of the town, with its lively main square, framed by places to eat, and overlooked by the beautiful Santa Trofimena, a peaceful church named after the town’s patron saint.

 

Sal de Riso: A Taste of Lemon Heaven

Following Marriana’s advice, we visited Sal de Riso, probably the most famous dessert spot along the Amalfi Coast.

It’s very, very special. Ricotta, two biscuits with cheese ricotta Typical of the area. Si, typical Minori.

Sal de Riso, say you like to taste lemon cake

 

Eating the Famous Delizia al Limone

We chose their signature dessert, the Delizia al Limone. A dessert that’s as much a symbol of the Amalfi Coast as the lemons themselves.

And what a perfect way to end the day. This delicate dome of sponge cake is soaked in a fragrant limoncello syrup, filled with a silky lemon custard, and enveloped in a light, lemon-infused whipped cream glaze. Each bite offers a harmonious blend of sweet and tart, with the bright citrus flavor of Amalfi lemons shining through.

Yeah, that was really nice.  And now, my second dessert!

 

Final Reflections on the Path of the Lemons

The Path of the Lemons, isn’t just a walk, it’s an unforgettable journey through a living tradition.

I feel truly grateful to have experienced it. From the warmth of local hospitality and a deep love for the land, to the gentle stubbornness of donkeys and a way of life passed down through generations. Every step tells a story. It may be one of the lesser visited places along the Amalfi Coast, but for me, it was undoubtedly the most special.

Thank you so much for watching. Please do subscribe to my channel and turn on the bell notification button if you’d like to know when I upload the next episode. I’ll be exploring much more of the Amalfi Coast and beyond. In the meantime, check out these videos. Until next time, Happy Exploring!